Living in GK

Tifnotes version: If you have elementary school age kids, dress them up in their Halloween or Carnival costumes, pack a bag of confetti, silly string, or curly streamers to throw, and go to the Kinderoptocht in Sittard on the last Sunday before the Carnival season officially starts. Park in lots or nearby streets avoiding areas with the "verdunning hounders" sign. Pack drinks and snacks if you'd like or warm up with delicious hot chocolate or coffee at Bagels and Beans or Die Twee. Check the website above for dates closer to the next Carnival, but do go. It is a lot of fun! Oh, and don't forget your camera! The photo-ops are fantastic!

Full version (where I ramble on a bit more): One week before the big Carnival parties start, Sittard has a special parade for the children. Winding through the old streets around the old market square, this parade will be enjoyed by your entire family. For almost two hours costumed groups travel along the parade route passing out treats, singing, playing music, and entertaining the crowds. Just the costumes and makeup alone make this a very special parade, but knowing that it's a children's parade during this season is nice too making it a family event that the kids will enjoy. Both in the parade and on the streets you'll find people of all ages from infants sleeping in their decorated strollers to grandmothers and grandfathers with painted faces and silly hats. Among the crowds of spectators most all children are dressed in costumes and more then half the adults have on a hat, boa, or other colorful accessory.

Go a little early if you want parking in a parking lot. If you're running late, park on the side streets, but look for signs that say " verdunning hounders." This means "for residents only," so you will be ticketed if you park there.

The parade winds down the last half of Putstraat, turns just in front of Bagels and Beans, then circles back to the market, so we stood near Bagels and Beans (which just so happens to have delicious coffee and hot chocolate drinks in to go cups) and watched the parade from there. The crowds were big, but not horrible at that spot and it's easy to turn and catch the last half of the parade again as it winds back to the market behind you.

The Dutch kids were well armed with silly string and armfuls of confetti and curly streamers. My girls would have loved that as well. So, now you know. Bring those things and it will just add to the fun. We saw plenty of tubas walking by thoroughly covered in silly string and even the police car wasn't exempt from the decoration. The atmosphere is one of fun and is a perfect family event.

The website (only in Dutch) has information on the parade with times, the route, and photos of past parades dating back to the 1920's. The Dutch word for parade is optocht, so the Groteoptocht link will get you to the information for the large parade that they have during the Carnival week itself. If you want more information on the Kinderoptocht (Children's parade), click on that link for the route and photos of past children's parades as well.

This year the parade was held on January 27, the Sunday before the Women's Day, at 1333.

From a The Inn Places...


Two of these weeks have been booked now in Paris! Would you like to go?

Spacious suburban base for family holidays in Paris

Spend a glorious week (or two) in Paris , in a lovely apartment (sleeps 4) only 3-4 metro stops from the centre of Paris , and only 30km from Eurodisney.

Free parking and close to lots of shops and tourist sites..

Experience the attractions and cuisine of the French capital whilst staying in one of the beautiful residential areas.

The weeks available are:
10-17 Feb 2012
17-24 Feb 2012

First come, first served!!!
Call 02454.7326, or write an email for more details at jmchalm@aol.com

______________________________________________________

We currently have four weeks of timeshare vacation which will lapse at the end of February 2012.  We are unable to travel at this time.  Rather than lose them altogether, we are willing to rent them at our cost price, i.e. 650 Euro per week.  Where is this?

Anywhere in the world.  Check the resort directory at  http://www.intervalworld.com and check out the region(s) which may interest you.  You will be able to rent from prestigious 5-star holiday resorts, such as Marriotts (Marbella, Phuket, Mallorca etc), Royal Savoy in Funchal (Madeira – normally retails at 1000 Euro per night!), the Radisson Blu at Golden Bay in Malta, Monte Anfi in Gran Canaria, Four Seasons Fairways & Four Seasons’ Country Club in Quinta do Lago (Algarve), La Quinta (La Manga, Spain) and a multitude of others.  These are only some of the resorts we ourselves have exchanged into, trading our timeshare weeks in Orlando, Florida.  Nobody is going to try and sell you timeshare, you would simply use our right to exchange for the weeks we have banked with our exchange company.
How does this work?  All you need to let us know is when you want to travel, the areas you wish to go to, and we can check for availabilities on-line.  This is a very quick process.  If successful, we book the confirmation certificate to your name.  That is all.

For more info, call 00.49.2454.7326

                                                      
MARRIOTT’S MARBELLA
ROYAL SAVOY, FUNCHAL
RADISSON BLU, MALTA

Reading about a place means more when you've walked those streets as does walking those streets after learning the history or hearing a tale.


It's amazing how many stories can come to life after the opportunity to travel.


Here are a couple of my favorite European tales.

What are yours?



The Time In Between by María Dueñas

If you're heading to Morocco or Madrid or are interested in a southern perspective of WW2...
Take a tour of 1930's Morocco and Spain through the life of dressmaker Sira Quiroga.  Dueñas paints a vivid picture of life then interweaving the political chaos with seemingly ordinary people who would find themselves doing extraordinary things.  Infused with culture, not only is this a beautiful story, but a powerful one that speaks to the power of humanity and the global climate of the time.


 
The Historian by Elizabeth Kostova

If you want to zig-zag through France, Turkey, England, and Romania...

This is quite simply my favorite historical fiction novel of all time.  Kostova takes you on a mysterious journey through Europe as her characters seek answers to a father's disapperance and a stack of yellowing letters.  It's about history and lore and the interweaving of the two with enough suspense and mystery to keep you reading and just enough romance.  The place descriptions are so vivid, it's as if you were walking there yourself, and by the end of the book, you may just have a pretty good travel bucket-list.

A friend's secret supplier... she's in the states.  We can tell you now!  ;)

This is the antique dealer that I was never able to visit though I've seen his things in the house of a friend and turned green with envy.  Beautiful things.  Amazing prices.  Really nice guy.  I wanted to get there first.  :(  Go and tell me how it is.

Where do you go if you need to rent a car locally?  When family comes and we need a bigger car or when you're taking a big trip and need some extra space?  Do you have experience that you'd like to share?

Courtesy of the American Spouses of Brunssum Travel Information Guide

I'd never heard of Moose Milk until I moved to Germany and met a bunch of jovial Canadians.  It seems an unlikely place to learn the specialty, but when the weather gets cold and freezing fog binds the trees in sheaths of ice,  the warmth of an International party can be intoxicating... as can the infamous beverage.


Served at parties and distributed by a tiny wooden "Santa train" once a year, this creamy beverage got a quick reputation for luring you in with a sweetness that masks the "punch" of it's three liqueurs.  I was told that it was a closely guarded secret... all the more reason to befriend one of our "neighbors from the North."  I've since found out that it's a traditional drink of the Canadian Navy served most frequently at Levée.  There are several versions in Navy forums online.  This one, given to me by a Canadian friend, is nearly identical to many I've seen.



History from Caperfrasers:  Though the French Canadians retained most of their customs while under British Colonial rule, one of their traditional drinks, Reindeer's Blood (Le Sang du Caribou) changed to Moose Milk by adding whiskey as a basic ingredient since it traveled better.  At that time, it was mixed with goat's milk, then flavored with nutmeg and cinnamon to create this new version.  Now egg nog and/or ice cream are frequently added to the mix.  

NOTE:

In doing a quick online search for a photo of Moose Milk, I learned that not everyone knows it's a Canadian thing.  For example, in Volcano, California, a small historical marker lays claim that Moose Milk originated there in the Whisky Flat Saloon where bourbon, half and half, and rum were combined to create this popular drink of the gold rush pioneers.

A literal source informs us that Russian farmers have found a way to tame and milk moose so that they can supply the demand for this nutritious drink.  Higher in fat and protein than cow's milk, moose milk is said to help prevent gastric problems among other things.  All the rage in Russia, you think we'll be drinking this stuff soon?  The Swede's have produced Moose Milk Cheese.  What would Ben and Jerry's do?

Another source refers to Moose Milk as a lube used in hunting.  Ick.  I really have no idea why it would go by this name except that it turns white. 

What: A wonderful family event/tradition while you're living here. Something special to do on a cold weekend day in December.
Go: Absolutely. At least once.
Where: Gillrath, Germany
Cost: Adults 9.00 Euros/Children 6 Euros

Tickets: Recommend booking ahead of time especially if going with a group. You can buy tickets at the booth when the train is running or at the locations listed on the website. (Go to http://www.selfkantbahn.de, then click on "Santa Claus" on the left and scroll down for ticket locations)

Dates: Check out the German St. Nikolausbahn information on the website for dates as they are not currently on the English part. The site will tell you which dates are sold out or close to being sold out.


What to expect:
Our first year here we took the kids on the St. Nikolausbahn - the special Christmas holiday steam train ride in Gillrath. It was spontaneous and we had no idea what to expect. This year, we did some planning and it's a good thing. This special train ride, though it's been around since the early 70's, is really catching on and filling up. If you have a large group, it is wise to get tickets ahead of time either at the
locations on the website, or at the little ticket booth
itself in Gillrath.

About 2 hours total, you will board the train in Gillrath right by the Gruenes Warenhaus, go a little way in the antique steam train, then stop and wait for a very special visitor to arrive in a carriage.

Have your camera ready. It is a beautiful - especially on a cold snowy day. St. Nikolaus will go through every train car with his companion, Black Peter, handing out goodie bags to all the children with a large traditional bread, a clementine, and a chocolate bar.


When you arrive in Schierwaldenrath, everyone rounds the corner to a large building filled with tables and benches. Christmas music plays. Hot waffles, bratwurst, gluwein, cocoa, and other foods are available for purchase. St. Nikolaus will come in and sit on the stage by the Christmas tree. Kids line up and show him their talent - usually by singing a song, playing an instrument, or, for the little ones, reciting their ABC's or counting. The time is very nice - people are happy - the children really enjoy it and it's a wonderful piece of German culture that we get to be a part of.

Both on the rides to and from Schierwaldenrath, beverages are served in most of the cars (not free), so if someone comes around asking if you'd like a "trinken," then you can order something hot. The conductor does check tickets both coming and going, so be sure to have those handy.

People are allowed to stand outside the train cars on the small deck. I wouldn't recommend allowing small children as it is dangerous and can get crowded, but especially on a cold day, it is absolutely beautiful and quite peaceful to watch the billows of steam rising over the farmland.

Nikolauslied is the name of a very traditional and popular song sung by children this time of year. You'll hear many of them singing it for St. Nikolaus on stage. Click on the link for the lyrics or Google the name to find another site with the lyrics online.

Sadly, our resident face painter, Shannon Wickenhauser is PCSing and won't be available to share her artistry with us any longer.

If you or someone you know has a talent for face painting and enjoys working with kids, please pass along the information so that we can all find you when it's time for our next party/event.

For those of you without the time to sew or the skill, there's a very talented seamstress in town who does sewing services from her home.   She has a lot of experience after handling sewing contracts for the base at Offutt for several years and is comfortable with both uniform and civilian clothing alterations.

Reader Recommendation... "he's a really great guy."

When I began this blog, there was very little information available about the area and what's going on.  Now, there's so much more and with Schinnen being online, it's easy to find out about what's going on not only on the base, but in the area as well.  They're Public Affairs office is now on Facebook and Twitter, so it's easy to find out what's going on.  :)

Reader Recommendation... AR

An innovative sports park with a lot of different sports to explore like discgolf, BMX, beachsports, ultimate Frisbee, Mountain biking, soccer, and badminton, the Sport & Leisurepark in Landgraaf offers  sporting activities for every age group. They also offer sports packages for birthday parties, family days, team-building activities, and workshops.

 Reader Recommendation JM

There are an inordinant amount of empty houses and we want to help out the landlords that we love.  Here's your chance.

If you're moving out, leave a comment here.  Tell us about your house and who to contact.  Your special German home might get filled and folks coming in will hear from you just why they need to live in your old house. 

You know I'll be plugging "my" house here as well.   ;) 

YUM!!!! If you like blueberries, even just a little, I've found an absolutely delicious place to go!

This little farm was started about 40 years ago and is still going strong. Run by the family who started it, the people who work and help there are really friendly and helpful.

Buy berries already picked... or, better yet, pick your own!!!

• Bring your own bucket if you have one, or you can borrow theirs. When they've weighed your berries, they'll send them home with you in large fruit crates that stack and lay flat.

• Bring the children! They can help! The people there are VERY child friendly. Even tiny ones are welcome.
  

• There is a system . Sophie is the woman in charge. She doesn't speak a lot of English, but is very kind and very helpful. She will tell you which bush to pick. You pick the entire bush - all the blue ones, she says. No green. Then, you move on to the next bush in the row. They are packed with berries and the blue ones fall off very easily. Some are tiny and some are the size of nickles, but they are all delicious.

• The young girl speaking English to us and bringing us to Sophie told us we could eat as many as we'd like. Then Sophie, in showing us how, pointed to the green berries and shook her head no, picked a few blue ones and dropped all but one into my bucket. The last one went into her mouth and she smiled.

Such a friendly place. Go, enjoy the sun and the delicious berries (they have jam for sale there as well), and say "hi" to Sophie for me!

Open Seasonally: Depending on the weather, they are open from early July to early August. (I went today and they thought they'd be open for picking for two more weeks.)

Directions: Take that main highway that runs from Brunssum north to Koningsbusch. Go through one roundabout in Koningsbusch continuing straight. About 1 mile down on your right hand side, you'll see house #45 and the sign above for "Bosbessen." Turn there. There is parking if you drive back a bit. A sign saying "zelf plukken" or "selbst pluecken" means "U-Pick" and will tell you the current price.

Leave a comment to add your favorite school and home resources!


School information

• http://www.schooldigger.com:  Scroll over the map to see different schools with their addresses, links, and ratings.  Search for schools and click on schools to see information, test scores, ratings, reviews, and demographics.
• http://www.greatschools.org/:  Reader recommended.  "I was very interested in the 1/10 score b/c that's how the school tests, but I was also very interested in the 1/5 star score b/c those are from parent reviews - and I read the comments and put stock in those.  I was also willing to go down on the first score for a more diverse student body and higher scores from parent reviews."

House Hunting

• http://www.homes.com:  This covers a lot.  I was able to find more here than on other web sites and with this one you can also search by county if you want a particular school district.
• http://www.militarybyowner.com:  The title is self-explanatory.  This is a tremendous resource if you're looking for a home to rent or buy after a PSC or if you are moving and want to list your home.  It's by owner, so you have personal contact and can learn more about the area.  I know people that use this site a lot to list their own homes and we were just able to find an amazing rental here.  Since these aren't listed through brokers, they aren't always found on other sites.  I recommend checking this and the site above to get a better list of home options.
•  http://www.ahrn.com/:  You have to log into this site to search it, but it comes highly recommended from people who have used it and found their homes.
• http://www.trulia.com/:  Reader recommended.

La Gondola Italienische Eis Kaffeespezialitaeten
Gerbergasse 11; Geilenkirchen


Cafe Schleypen
Konrad-Adenauer-Str. 126; Geilenkirchen
Tel. (0 24 51) 21 26

~Not solely an ice cream shop, this bakery/konditerei makes fresh delicious ice cream on the premises each day and sells it at the shop from May until September.


Carla's Eislaedchen
Waldfeucher Strasse 164; Heinsberg - Kirchhoven
Tel: 02452-65024

~Ice cream, cakes, coffees on a nice Mediterranean terrace.


Die Twee Ijs Salon
Market Square, Sittart
Tel: (0031) 046-4528083
Open for ice cream ALL YEAR!

~Get your ice cream fix 365 days a year here at this small cafe right in the market square in Sittard. An easy stop. A scoop costs .75.


DODS Fashion and More
At the end of Putstraat near the Sittard market, across from Bagels and Beans, this little clothing shop also sells delicious Italian gelato.  Recommended by an Italian foodie!




Cafe am Rodebach
Knuppstraße 9
Gangelt-Stahe
Tel. 02454/8623
Open all year - Ice Cream only served in the summer.

~ A tiny little cafe just at the edge of Stahe near Gillrath, the forest, and a ton of walking/biking trails, this place isn't big enough for a huge party, but is a perfect quick stop during the ice cream season for a delicious scoop. A great place to reward yourself after a long walk in the woods.


Eis Paradies Penners
Millener Weg 25
Tuddern 52538
Tel: 05456-4646
Open 7 Days a week from May until September 2pm-9pm

~ This place is HUGE, so it works for large groups. They have seating indoors, on the patio, and outside. They have a playground for kids and horses nearby for them to look at. The portions are generous and the family that owns and runs it is very friendly. They also speak English well.



Waldfeuchter Garten Eiscafe
Meulenweid 37, Waldfeucht
Tel: 02455-522
Hours: Mon - Fri 1400-2000; Sat and Sun 1100-2000

Eiscafe am Markt Hubert Vogten
Brabanterstrasse 62, Waldfeucht
Tel: 02455-2164
~ice cream and cakes prepared fresh daily.

Summer is here, the kids are out of school, and if you're not flying "home," you will need to fill your days or the kids will get stir crazy and so will you.

So here's my little list of favorites.  Feel free to add to it in the comments area.  :)


Favorite "Swimming Holes:"

• OUTDOOR:  Gangelt's Freibad at Haus Hammacher.  The swimming pools are amazing and have slides as well, so all ages will have a blast.  There's a large grassy area to lay out near the pools and if you get hungry there's a snack bar there or you can leave the pool area and enjoy a nice meal at Haus Hammacher.  You can also row a boat in the little lake across the parking lot and play a round of mini-golf.  Prices are reasonable.  http://www.livingingk.com/2008/07/beyond-haus-hammacher-fun-in-gangelt.html
• INDOOR:  My kids LOVED Aquana and still talk about it.  Just 30 minutes from GK, it's easy to get to and a lot of fun.  Spend the whole day and go any time of year.  Yeah, it's summer now, but a German summer has it's share of rain.  http://www.livingingk.com/2007/07/indooroutdoor-swim-center-in-wrselen.html

My Favorite Summer Cafe:

• On a recent whirlwind visit to GK I made time to go to Immendorf.  On a nice day, this is just about as good as it gets if you want to sip a coffee or a beer and visit with friends.  The beauty of this place goes well beyond the delicious German breakfasts and the amazing array of cakes and breads.  This place has a lake with turtles and a playground.  Between those two, young children will be kept busy enough for you to enjoy a bit of adult conversation.  Add in the delicious and super inexpensive ice cream and you may never leave.  http://www.livingingk.com/2007/07/haus-immendorf.html

My Favorite Outdoor Restaurant:

• Pannekoeken, an 18th century windmill that is still in use, a beautiful city, walking trails, and a playground... oh, and really good food.  That's what you'll find at the Pannekoeken Molen in Gulpen, NL.  It's only a pretty 40 minute drive from GK and totally worth it.  Great combined with some time at Drielandenpunt.  http://www.livingingk.com/2008/07/pannekoeken-molen-in-gulpen.html

Summer = Ice Cream:

• Tuddern's Eis Paradies is a classic summer getaway with generous servings of home made ice creams in a beautiful setting.  This family run business also has a playground to play on and mini-ponies for the kids to talk to.  http://www.livingingk.com/2007/07/eis-paradies.html
• Birgden:  Have Spaghetti Eis at the ice cream place in Birgden just on the back side of the big triangular green space.  The ice cream is amazing and there's plenty of place to run and stroll in the park across the street.  My favorite:  chocolate spaghetti eis with berries on top.

A Rainy Summer:

• If you don't feel like getting wet at Aquana, there's always the Foroxity fall back plan.  Comfortable, easy, and movies in English!  Kung Fu Panda 2 is out now and Cars 2 is coming soon.  http://www.livingingk.com/2007/07/movie-theaters-foroxity.html

Favorite Day Trip:

• There's a really pretty hike between Burg Eltz and Burg Pyrmont.  The latter is just above a really nice B&B that serves an amazing dinner and is very kid friendly.  The hike itself is a couple hours and nice on a not-too-hot day.  Cochem isn't too far away.  From here you can catch a boat and take a leisurely river boat cruise.  http://www.livingingk.com/2006/05/trier-and-mosel-our-trip.html

Favorite Easy Weekend:

• The beach is the first thing I think of in summer and just a couple hours can bring  you to a number of pretty beaches.  My favorite is in Callantsoog, NL near Schagen.  It's busy enough, but not as touristy as some and has a nice nature preserve with trails and beautiful dunes in addition to the wide expanse of beach.  Schagen is just 10 minutes away and has interesting historical markets once a week.  Need a place to stay?  Try Tjallewal, a great B&B nearby.  http://www.livingingk.com/2007/07/callantsoog-nl-north-sea-beach-of.html  

Caritas is an international Catholic organization that gives aid when needed.  They do clothing drives in the area and will pick up clothing and shoes that you don't need.  Call to arrange a pick-up time.

Sadly, a lot of your German experience boils down to your house and who owns it.   I've met a lot of people who've been miserable because of a problematic house and an unresponsive and even dishonest landlord.  Though our legal and housing offices do their best, they can't always solve every issue that comes up.

Do know your tenant rights and do ask around about landlords.  Ask at the housing office and read up on google.  There are several sites that talk about these things.

Please leave your landlord experiences both good and bad in the comments section so that we can help others.  Check the comments for bad landlords!  You don't want those kind of headaches.

"The UKJSU in Brunssum has reported the presence of a vehicle posing as an unmarked police car on the MSRs in Belgium and The Netherlands.  The car is utilizing a scrolling LE notice on the rear windscreen to pull vehicles over; the sign displays the message 'POLICE FOLLOW ME' and the rogue car then puts on blue lights before pulling over. The occupants of the rogue vehicle then rob the victim vehicle at
gun point.

Advice is to call the national policy emergency number (112 in Belgium and The Netherlands) on seeing such a vehicle, as there are many genuine unmarked police vehicles in this region, to clarify authenticity and get their advice."

"Here's a live and learn:  There's at least one Apotheke open in Kreis Heinsberg, 24 hours a day.  They publish the schedule in the Wed. paper or you can stop into  any Apotheke and get the 2011 calendar for your fridge (which totally beats digging through the blue bin late at night looking for last Wednesday's paper)."

 

Just one hour from Camp Darby.  Airports at Pisa and Florence.


"A day in Florence..." 

If you're starting out your trip like this, you've already missed out.  Florence is worth seeing if only for an hour, but the beauty, art, and culture that fills this city is so much more than even the most disciplined tourist can see in a single day.  Narrow your interests and it may be possible.  If, for example, you only care about Michaelangelo, then a day might be enough, but if you love architecture and history, art and culture, food and really incredible shopping, then a day will barely brush the surface.

That being said, I had 9 hours.  Tragic.

Parking:  The main train station across the piazza from the Santa Maria Novella is easy to find and a convenient place to start your day with a tourist office just across the street, but it's also the most expensive parking lot in town.  For more reasonable parking, go to one of two lots by the Fortezza da Basso or the one at Ex Stazione Leopolda.  There's another by the Piazza della Mercato Centrale that is closer into the tourist areas.

i = Tourist Office:  I don't usually utilize these information centers, but if you're limited on time, it's a valuable stop. The staff are friendly, informative, and can help tailer your day to your interests, schedule, and pace according to your group size.  They also know the best places to eat and can draw you a self-guided tour on one of the complimentary maps they provide.

Bathrooms:  Italy is not known for the cleanliness of their bathrooms.  Florence is no exception.  Hand sanitizer, toilet seat covers, and a package of tissue or wipes would be helpful and comforting in those situations when you really have to go.  Nice restaurant does not necessarily equal clean bathroom or even proper toilet.



Santa Maria Novella
http://giubileo.comune.fi.it/
Hours: Daily 0900-1400; Closed Fridays
Cost: ~5Euros/person
This 13th Century church is literally directly across from the train station between the Piazzas Della Stazione and Unita Italiana.  The perimeter is lined with intricatlely carved shields, each one different as is the courtyard where the entrance of the church and ticket office resides.

The Cappella Filippo Strozzi is open to the public for free as a place of prayer accessible on the east side of the church.  To see the church you must enter the courtyard at the front of the church and buy a ticket. The museum entrance is to the left of the main entrance.

Though beautiful, if you've only 9 hours in Florence, this is one to skip.

Santa Maria Novella

The Infamous "Pharmacy" at Santa Maria Novella
Via Della Scala 16
It isn't often that someone tells you to check out a really pretty pharmacy, but this is Florence where everything is pretty.  More a seller of soaps and perfumes than a medical themed pharmacy, it's definitely worth a stop if not to buy just to look and smell some of the perfumes created from recipes nearly as old as the building.

Random Churches
There are a ton of tiny little churches that don't even make the tourist map, but sometimes these little ones can be just as pretty.  If the door is open, then it takes just a moment to peek in and see what treasures you may find.  This one, on the Via de Cerretani is a nice example of romanesque architecture lacking the heaviness of the Gothic. Some columns are adorned with frescoes. The inside of this little church is actually prettier than the Duomo.

Via de Cerretani
This street leading towards the Duomo is full of shops and bakeries.  There are several nice shoe stores here.


The Via de Cerretani opens into the spacious Piazza de San Giovanni and Piazza del Duomo where the impressive Duomo and Baptistry stand.  There's a waffle stand on the left with quick food if you're in a hurry (I don't recommend the bathroom).  For a clean bathroom during normal business hours, there is a WC to the left near the clock when facing the Duomo.  It costs 50 cents, but is worth it.  Sadly, it's closes in the evening.


The Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore and Baptistry
www.operaduomo.firenze.it

It saddens me that I wasn't able to see everything.  It's just not possible with limited time, but do look this up ahead of time or carry your guide with you.  There is a lot of art and beauty in and around this church complex that gains meaning when you realize what exactly you're looking at.

The Church:  There are long lines leading to the front door of the church, but it is free to enter and the lines move relatively quickly.  If someone will hold your place in line, it's a good time to walk around and take in some of the incredible details of the facade that you don't notice until you're close up.  The inside of the church is relatively plain compared to its exterior and other local churches, but the Brunelleschi's frescoed dome is impressive.

The Baptistry:  Possibly the oldest building in Florence, it sits facing the Duomo in the Piazza.  The bronze doors by Ghiberti are on the East side.  $ to enter.

The Dome is the tallest building in Florence, so the views should be astounding.  It has it's own entrance behind the Campanile and costs to enter.


The Campanile:  Lines are shorter here, so this is what I elected to climb.  It does cost a small fee to climb the over 400 stairs up to the top.  The bidirectional stairways are narrow as you climb so that there are lines forming at each level to go up or down waiting on people in the stairways.  DO NOT go if you are claustrophobic.  DO NOT go if you are grossly overweight.  If you are afraid of heights, you may be ok at the first and second levels since they are screened in.  The top level is open (fantastic photo ops).

Duomo Santa Maria di Fiore

Behind the baptistry, the Via Roma leads down a path of tempting cafes and patisseries to the spacious Piazza delle Repubblica which was once part of the cities ghetto.  It now holds restaurants, vendors selling beautiful leather purses and a carousel.  The area through that arched doorway is a great place to walk, shop, and eat.

Piazza della Repubblica

Once a silk market, The Loggia del Mercato Nuovo is home to a nice outdoor market full of souvenirs and pretty leather things.  On one side sits the famous Florentine boar.  Legends say if you touch the nose of Tacca's "Il Porcellino," then you will either return to Florence one day, have good fortune/luck, or if you make a wish and the coin you put into his mouth falls into the grate, then your wish will be granted.  These legends have bring crowds of hands to pet this pig's shiny brass nose.

Birthplace of the Renaissance, art is everywhere and as we near the Piazza della Signoria, there seem to be more street artists.  It's impressive.  These aren't the jugglers entertaining crowds in other cities.  In my 9 hours, two girls sat quietly, intently blending chalks to create these beautiful masterpieces.

Chalk artist and her work near the Mercato Nuovo

Walking into the expansive Piazza della Signoria was one of those "awe" moments for me when I pause speechless calculating where I'll start.  It's no wonder that this space has been the pulse of political and social life for so many centuries.  Of all the beauty in this city, this open square embodies all that is Florentine in its grandness, pomp, and art.

Loggia dei Lanzi

On one side The Loggia dei Lanzi is an open market styled building with columns, arches, and steps leading into a mini art gallery filled with beautiful statues including Cellini's original bronze Perseus holding Medusa's head.

Though a few of the piazza's many statues are copies with the originals tucked safely away in museums, quite a few originals remain.  It's incredible to see these valuable pieces of art just sitting there out in public including the massive Neptune's Fountain at one corner of the Palazzo Vecchio.  The first couple rooms of the Palazzo Vecchio are free and void of lines, so even on a quick trip, it's worth stopping in especially to see that beautiful first of three courtyards.

Font Neptuno

To the right of the Palazzo Vecchio lies the sprawling Galleria Degli Uffizi, one of Italy's greatest art galleries housing mostly paintings (for sculpture go to the Bargello).  A pedestrian road runs down the center of the building that rises up with columns on either side.  An arched entryway leads to the Arno river and the Pont Vecchio just beyond.

Just outside the Uffizi at the river's edge is a thick iron chain covered in locks.  Like the bridge in Cologne, these are left by lovers to attest to the permanency of their love.



The short walk between Uffizi and the Pont Vecchio is an arched tunnel of shops with columns on one side and places to peak out and take pictures.  It's charming as is the Pont Vecchio which reminds me very much of Venice's Rialto with high end jewelry shops lining both sides. 

Pont Vecchio

16th C. Fountain in teh Piazza de' Frescobaldi by Buontalenti

Turn right at the end of the Vecchio walking along the Borgo S Jacopo where you'll find little shops and restaurants.  A large circle around the Santo Spirito indicated that this was the best place to eat.

There's an entire block of restaurants lined up on to side of the church to choose from.  In Italy, you have to eat before 3 or after 7 if you want to enjoy a sit-down dining experience.  By 3, many restaurants will turn people away.

Borgo Antico
Piazza S. Spirito 6r
50125 Firenze
Serving up huge portions of delicious hot pasta for very reasonable prices, we really enjoyed a relaxing meal here even at the end of the lunch hour with great service in a quirky atmosphere with no rush for us to go even as they were cleaning up.  Child friendly and helpful, I'd eat here again. 

If you're vacationing in winter, then this is about the time that you have to race to the hill at Piazzale Michelangelo to watch the sunset over the Arno.

It's an easy walk past the Piazza dei Pitti the host of several great museums that could fill days.  Opposite and along the Via Guicciardini are some fantastic shops albeit a little high end.  The leather shops are very nice and the pottery is nice to look at only due to museum-like prices.  Artists line the end near the Vecchio here selling paintings and sketches of Florence.

Piazza dei Pitti

Follow the Arno to the Ponte Alle Grazie.  From here you can turn right and follow the signs from De Bardi to Via Del Monte Alle Crosi to the Piazzale Michelangelo or you can follow the river to the Piazza Giuseppe Poggi and take the series of stairs that leads up the hill.  Bus 12 and 13 will get you to both the Piazzale Michelangelo and the Monte alle Croci which sits higher on the hill.

Copies of Michelangelo's statues line the upper balcony, though the view is so stunning at sunset, that I barely noticed them.  Snack trucks and souvenir sellers wander this area and there's parking if you have a car and would like to drive.

View of the Pont Vecchio and Palazzo Vecchio from the Piazzale Michaelangelo

Santa Croce closes at 5 as do most of the Florentine churches, so if you want to see them all, you must have more than one day.  There simply isn't enough time unless you're on a bike and just run in to each one to see it.  The Santa Croce isn't far from the Ponte Alle Grazie at the bottom of the hill from Michelangelo's Piazzale.  This area seems a bit more local and residential than the areas around the Duomo and Signoria.

Santa Croce

It's a 15 minute walk from Santa Croce to the Synagogue and Jewish Museum through mostly quiet residential streets.

Great Synagogue of Florence
http://moked.it/jewishflorence/

Via Luigi Carlo Farini, 4
50121 Firenze, Italy
+39 055 245252 ‎ 

The Synagogue lies just outside most tourist maps, but is only a 15-20 minute walk from the Duomo.  It's surrounded by Kosher shops and restaurants in a quiet neighborhood.  The website is more than just a portal for the synagogue and museum.  It leads you into the small, but welcoming community that provides a lot of tourist information for the area.

The Synagogue and Jewish Museum of Florence on Via LC Farini

Just a couple blocks away is the lively Via Pietrapiana lined with shops and little piazzas.  At Piazza Dei Ciompi there are rows of stalls selling antiques and bric-a-brac. At Piazza Salvemini 2 sits Serafino, a gelato shop serving up generous scoops of really delicious gelato.

Pietrapiana turns into Corso B.Go Degli, both full of great shops from stationary and gifts to shoes and fashion.  I especially love Signum with a beautiful collection of papers, pens, notebooks, maps, prints, and metal initials with colorful wax sticks.  






If you are lucky enough to complete this loop in 9 hours or if you are lucky enough to have more than 9 hours to spend in this marvelous city, stop at the Mercato Centrale on your way back to the station.  It's just a few blocks from the Santa Novella and is open with vendors until 1830.  If time allows, stop and see the Santo Lorenzo just a block away.



Mercato Centrale
Della Riento and Via S. Antonio


See?  One day is practically criminal.  There's an entire area of art just north of the Duomo that there wansn't even time for.  With another day, and some luck from the Florentine boar, I'll come back and explore the area around the Piazza San Marco and the archeological museum.